Tag Archives: Chanel

Fashion Frenzy? Chanel, Valentino, Lagerfeld – What to say…

Another fabulous commentary by Jeffrey B Felner on what is the highlight of the Fashion world’s calendar – the Paris Fashion Show.

Haute Couture is the creme de la creme of fashion, but this season we see that even the grandest master of the couture..KARL LAGERFELD…can produce a clunker of a collection and that hiring new designers is not always the answer to the rejeuvenation of a revered brand as in the case of VALENTINO

As a rule, by this time, I am in some rapturous state while taking in the Couture Collections.  Unfortunately, there is no rapture here but more disbelief as to how can these revered brands produce collections that are searching for new clientele rather than catering to their stalwart devotees.  Oh and, by the way, the collections left me slack jawed and wondering why and how did this happen.

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

 CHANEL/ KARL LAGERFELD produced the spectacle that one has come to expect but the collection did not exactly live up to the amazing stage set. 

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

Chanel

Mr. Lagerfeld can produce the most wildly exciting, awe inspiring collections for CHANEL but this season he produced a highly difficult, cumbersome and much more matronly collection which I do not believe will resonate with his fans. 

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

Chanel

The silhouettes, the lengths, the palette, the oddity of it all seemed to contradict what Lagerfeld has been building for years. 

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

Chanel

Season after season, whether it be Couture or RTW, one was always  amazed by the clothes, the inventiveness, the accessories(bags, shoes, jewelry) and none of that happened except for the fabulous bracelets.  I will admit to one exception………….the pearl dress.  How can one not marvel at that???

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

Chanel

Chanel Paris Fashion 2010

Chanel

Valentino Paris Fashion 2010

Valentino Paris Fashion 2010

Valentino Paris Fashion 2010

Valentino

Valentino Paris Fashion 2010

Valentino

Valentino Paris Fashion 2010

Valentino

 VALENTINO the brand, has been retooling since the departure of its beloved namesake, has once again provided us with a collection that begs the question…….”WHY?”

I get the impression that the new designers believe that if they use red fabric and toss a few bows around the garments that they have achieved a Valentino look ……….not!!!!!  These clothes are for some unknown client with some unknown occasion to attend and with an untold amount of money to spend on these truly unattractive clothes.  It seems that the house of Valentino is devolving while searching for the new couture client and they have flagrantly discarded the loyal ladies who made the house a staple of the Haute Couture.

It is always difficult for me to not rave about these collections which is why I urge you to review them at Style.com and keep up with me Jeffrey at  http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com/

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The Allure of Chanel by Paul Morand, lllustrations by Karl Lagerfeld

(Pushkin Press, April 2010)
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to spend a weekend with Coco Chanel? Just the two of you engaged in an extended conversation, which is really her recounting some of her most memorable times of her youth and later life?

The Allure of Chanel by Paul Morand

The Allure of Chanel by Paul Morand

There have been many words and hours devoted to the life of Coco Chanel, a few movies, and even a few television movies and specials, but none is as intimate as this story of her life through 1938 or so. The beauty of this book is that these are her words, her version of her life as told to one of her dear friends and also the author of this particular book. The book has been translated and redacted from original conversations between Mademoiselle Chanel and Mr. Durand. The entire manuscript was discovered upon Mr. Durand’s death in 1975.
Not only does this format engage you, but its words also cause you to laugh out loud at the very words that she uttered to describe herself, her acumen as a designer, her business, her lovers, and her philosophy of life. She was an original in so many ways and so very modern—yet so very provincial in many of her beliefs. “I am never satisfied with myself, so why should I be satisfied with others?” or “I judge people according to the what they spend.” or “the only thing I like spending is my strength.” On fashion, “expensive jewelry does not improve the woman who wears it . . . if she is plain she shall remain plain.”
Anyone who has a curiosity about fashion and the minds of those who create should read the story of Mademoiselle Chanel with great care and a very open mind as she is a voice which is heard to this day in the world of fashion and a voice that should actually be listened to more carefully in these modern times. I had no idea that she was so full of “bon mots” and so free with her very rigid philosophies regarding all segments of life.

From all other accounts of her life, she is always portrayed as the lonely, if not slightly bitter, workaholic, when in fact she was quite sanguine about her work, her life, her homes, her lovers, and just about anything you can think of. She was simply never at a loss for an opinion.
Lastly one must take note that the current designer for Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, has illustrated the book with the same chic and élan as is echoed in the fashion of Chanel. There is a reason that the house still exists, and I do believe that Mr. Lagerfeld has allowed himself to become one with Coco—a fact that would certainly have agreed with her as she stated: “I only like what I create, and I only create if I forget.”  

FASHION BY THE RULES  will be presenting book reviews that are tailored to the SHI Symbol members who are either interested in the trends of fashion or the history of fashion.  We hope that they will inspire you or transport you into this world.  

Jeffrey B. Felner

 
http://www.oligoville.com/category/fashion/fashion-by-the-rules/
http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com
http://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/search?q=JEFFREY+FELNER